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縱馬高歌:紀念瑪歌莊偉大的天才Paul Pontallier

縱馬高歌:紀念瑪歌莊偉大的天才Paul Pontallier

wang 音乐 评论0次 2026-02-22 2026-02-22
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縱馬高歌:紀念瑪歌莊偉大的天才Paul Pontallier

縱馬高歌白髮揚

月冷槊寒風刀鼚

將軍彎弓雁悲鳴

胡姬旋舞酒濺血

人生蹉跎原無事

瑪歌村尾五糧液

​覺備紀念偉大的天才

瑪歌莊CEO Paul Pontallier

詩句

It was this enthusiasm that always caused a smile amongst tasters during our annual pilgrimage to Bordeaux tasting the newest vintage en primeur.

Paul just couldn’t contain himself with his excitement for the new baby and so it was that, whatever the year, great or average or even sometimes poor, it would always be 
“possibly the finest Ch Margaux I have ever made…”

But boy did he make some extraordinary wines. 

瑪歌酒莊的酒標通常為白底

而2015年份的酒標一改往常,通過絲網印刷技術將

酒莊建築和酒窖的線條直接勾勒於葡萄酒的瓶身上,

金色圖案和黑色瓶身相互輝映,

華麗的外觀彰顯著2015年份對瑪歌的多重紀念意義。


2016年3月27日,瑪歌酒莊的功臣

——保羅·龐塔利爾(Paul Pontallier,

當時為酒莊總經理

因罹患癌症逝世

龐塔利爾已經為

瑪歌兢兢業業地工作了

三十多年,

2015年份的葡萄酒成為了他的遺作。

為了紀念這位傑出的釀酒師,酒莊特意在2015年份酒瓶

下方印上了

Hommage a Paul Pontallier

(致敬保羅·龐塔利爾)


2015年也是酒莊的主體建築正式落成的第200個年頭,
與此同時,
由英國的明星建築師諾曼·福斯特爵士(Sir Norman Foster)設計的新酒窖和研發中心
也在這一年正式落成。

His first vintage in complete charge as wine director was 1990 and at our recent Charity Wine dinner at the Savoy tasting the 1990 vintage 
it is only fitting that the sensational 1990 Ch Margaux was unquestionably my wine of the night. 

If I could only have taken one bottle home with me that evening, it would definitely have been this absolute beauty.

Paul’s amazing skills,the uniqueness of the extraordinary flavours from the finest Bordeauxs, 

justification of the 1855 classification system and 

Ch Margaux’s rightful position as a 1st growth estate 

and what all great wines should have, balance, excitement, pleasure and most of all longevity. 

This is a wine we will all be able to drink for many years to come and raise our eyes upwards and thank him for providing us with such a pleasure. 

The 2005 Ch Margaux is surely one of the wines of the vintage, at our annual blind tasting at Southwold, back in 2009 it came out as the wine of the vintage and the 2009 vintage itself is one of my absolute favourites. 

We head off to taste the 2015 Bordeaux vintage en primeur, Paul’s last. 

It will be a sad occasion as we enter the doors of Ch Margaux, but hopefully also a happy one as we look back on so many wonderful memories for a fine, kind and courageous man.

PAUL PONTALLIER

The Pontallier family has been making wine in France for more than 400 years.

Thibault Pontallier and his father – the legendary French winemaker Paul Pontallier – spent many years alongside other wine experts from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cognac, Champagne and Armagnac to taste, blend and create the fine wines and spirits of Pont des Arts.

Paul Pontallier was the managing director and winemaker of first growth Château Margaux in Bordeaux from 1983 until 2016.

He first joined the estate in 1983 aged 27, two years after his doctorate from the Bordeaux Institute of Oenology, where he had studied with the renowned oenologist Emile Peynaud and written a dissertation on the barrel ageing of red wines. 

Mr. Pontallier had also just returned from national service in Chile, most of which he had spent teaching oenology in Santiago.

Born in the Bordeaux region, Paul Pontallier spent his early life on his parents’ wine estate, Château La Loge Saint-Léger in AOC Bordeaux Supérieur. 

He gained his first degree in 1975 from the Institut National Agronomique Paris-Grignon that is today known as AgroParisTech. 

From there he specialised in oenology and viticulture, first in Montpellier and then at the Bordeaux Institute of Oenology.

His first seven years at Château Margaux were spent alongside Philippe Barré, and he took over as managing director when Barré retired in 1990. 

Under his direction, Château Margaux delivered consistently magnificent vintages and confirmed its position as one of the world’s truly great châteaux.

1855年,
瑪歌酒莊(Chateau Margaux)
與拉菲古堡(Chateau Lafite Rothschild)、
拉圖酒莊(Chateau Latour)和侯伯王莊園(Chateau Haut-Brion)一起被評為一級莊。

其中,

瑪歌酒莊

是當時四大一級莊中

唯一一個獲得20分滿分的酒莊。

在悠久的歷史中,瑪歌酒莊打造了很多高水準的頂級佳釀,2015年瑪歌酒莊紅葡萄酒就是其中之一。

2015年是一個難得的好年份

這一年份集合了2005、2009以及2010等頂級年份的特點。

年初天氣比前些年寒冷,因此葡萄的花期有所延後。

春季天氣溫暖而乾燥,葡萄藤健康生長並順利開花。

正所謂過猶不及,這種炎熱乾燥的天氣一直持續到6、7月份,瑪歌酒莊曾一度非常擔心部分葡萄藤可能會面臨缺水的困境。

好在8月份下了及時雨,葡萄得以順利轉色。

9月份,葡萄園白天天氣非常溫暖,而夜晚涼爽,這樣的晝夜溫差有助於葡萄積累糖分並保持酸度,也有利於葡萄果實發展出更絲滑的單寧和複雜的香氣。

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